‘Every Chef Must Study At This Spot’: Modest Turkish Dining Spot Secures Fourth on List of London’s Top Food Spots.

When compiling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred establishments. But, nestled near the top among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu located in a far-flung part of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

The little Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has made the family totally surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” says the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble shop achieving such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.